Time Out Europe by Air, October 2003

A forward-looking town of 30,000 people, Haugesund lies in the southwest of Norway in a geographically complex coastal stretch of islands and peninsulas. The herring industry was the town’s economic mainstay during the 20^th century, but its roots go back a lot further.

Harald Harfagri, the Viking whose rule united Norway, is buried just outside the town, his grave marked by the imposing but simple Haraldshaugen monument. At Avaldsnes, three miles south of the town, St Olav’s Church remains the only one of four that in the 13^th century formed an important national council. Set in pristinely maintained grounds, it retains an aura of ancient power and mystique.

Avaldsnes also features the most narrow juncture of the vital shipping strait historically known as Nordvegen – the way north. It’s from this word that Norway itself derives. Today all the sea traffic from Stavanger up to Bergen passes through here.

For an entertainingly visual guide try a screening of the " supervideo ’’ highlighting the region’s attractions and activities. This shows daily at the 5-screen cinema in the Rica Maritim Hotel (qv below); admission 50kr.

Situated very close to the town centre, The Haugesund Art Gallery (Erling Skjalgssonsgate 4, 5272 3471, www.haugesund-billedgalleri.net) specialises in modern art. It’s open all year round; though it’s wise to check which days.

Somewhat ambitiously, Haugesund likes to project itself as Norway’s Cannes – thus the initially mystifying movie references around town. A statue of Marilyn Monroe on the quay seems to point to her tenuous ancestral connections with the area (her father might have been from here). Put up by local film fans to commemorate the 30^th anniversary of Norma Jean’s death, its presence owes more to the film festival that takes place here each August.

Eating and Drinking

One of the most authentic local restaurants, Lothes Mat & Vinhus (Skippergate 4, 5271 2201) serves impressive seafood as well as reindeer. The unique harbour-styled wooden-sided building dates back to the 1850s. For cleanliving Nordic juice-and-sandwiches food, try Eva and Me (Skjoldaveien 4, 5272 9900, www.eveandme.no).

A stunningly cosy seafood eatery in Skudeneshavn on nearby Karmoy (see In the area) is Verthuset Smia (Soragada, 5283 6990). It’s worth visiting Laternen Kro (5282 8674), a place right on the harbour in Skudeneshavn for the atmosphere as well as the food. Verden’s Minste Café (Soragada 23, Reinersten House, 5285 2750) is an eccentrically eclectic place specialising in pancakes and ice-cream.

Bars in and around Haugesund tend to present an odd melange of Irish folk, ersatz country music and Norwegian pop, with the exception of Mack Kjelleren (Smedasundet 89), whose programme revolves around original singer-songwriter acts. A more interesting option than bars are café-bars like Nitti and Café MM, both also on the Smedasundet quayfront, where you can connect with friendly locals, most of whom speak diction-perfect English.

Shopping

Three blocks north of the quayside, the kilometre-long shopping street, Skaregate, has hundreds of stores. Also here is Steen & Strom Markedt, a major fashion complex. In October, Haugesund has an outdoor market. In Karmoy the Oasen Storsenter mall houses over 70 stores, with Scandanavian boutiques and chains incorporated. Information and bureau de change desks are situated in all shopping centres.

Where to stay

Along the waterfront are two well located hotels. Ask at Rica Maritim (Abygate 3, 5286 3000, 950-1610kr) for a room that overlooks the quay. The Comfort Hotel Amanda (1165-1535kr is further along Smedasundet and is close to the main shopping precinct.

A versatile fully licensed guesthouse with rooms/self-catering options, Skeisvang Gjestgiveri (Skeissvansvegen 20, 750kr) has the advantages of privacy and reasonable rates.

It’s well worth considering using Karmoy as your base instead of Haugesund. Staying at Norneshuset Overnatting (Nordnes, 7, Pb 5, 4297 Skudeneshavn, Phone: 5282 7262, 650-700kr) will have you right on the marina.

Getting around

Haugesund itself is pleasantly walkable, yet your best move is renting a car. Taking local intertown buses will restrict your freedom; cab fares to attractions would accumulate alarmingly. An excellent way to orientate yourself is driving the few miles up into the hills to the Steinsfjellet lookout point. >From there you can see how the land and water interconnect. (Daily car rental rates, including a 300km allowance, are between 480-580kr.).

In the area

Haugesund is linked to the extensive island of Karmoy by a huge-arched bridge that dominates the strait. At its southern-most end is Skudeneshavn, whose ultra-white colonial houses and twisty streets recall early 19^th-century cultural values. Further north on the island, the copper mine at Vigsnes has the distinction of having supplied the copper that went into the Statue of Liberty. A reconstructed mine and period buildings tell the story.

The surrounding fjords are magnificent, with picture opportunities galore. Offices on the quay have timetables and sell tickets for the many ferries operating in and out of Haugesund.

Net access

Net Planet

Strandgaten 143

5271 8500

Police station

Strandgaten 50 (5286 8000)

Emergency 112

Post office

Torgaten 10 (2282 4600: central information)

Car rental

Hertz (5284 2000)

Avis (5286 4800)

Taxis

Haugaland Taxis (5272 8181)

Tourist office

Kaigaten 1, N-5527

The Quay, Haugesund

5272 5323, www, haugesund.net

Open: Oct-May, 8am-3:30pm, Mon-Fri

Websites

www.haugalandet.no

www.karmoy.kommune.no

www.visithaugalandet.no