Time Out London, July 2004

Feature: Arizona, Bozeman & St Louis

Time Out London June 30 to July 7
Arizona, St Louis and Bozeman
Report: Michael O’Hanlon

Arizona, St Louis and Bozeman represent three versions of the real America that have kept their independent identity. All three have that elusive romance of natural authenticity increasingly harder to find in the US.
In the past decade Arizona has transcended its dusty old sun belt image to become one of the most sophisticated states in the US. Symbolically as well as geographically central, St Louis holds the key to several American legends. Jazz and blues were synthesized here. Huck Finn was created close by. Missouri baseball giants the Cardinals mythologised the game. Bozeman used to be only a pretty college town in rural Montana. Even with stressed-out city migrants and celebrities seeking anonymity moving into this part of the state, it remains spiritually western.

GETTING THERE
American Airlines operates daily flights to Phoenix from London Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester and Glasgow airports. Fares start from £546 (bookable via www.americanairlines.co.uk or 08457 789789). Flying time: 11hours 30 mins with one connection.
American operates daily flights to St Louis through Chicago from Heathrow, Manchester and Glasgow. Fares start from £488. Flying time: 12 hours.
Northwest/KLM Airlines (www.nwa.com; 08705 074074) go to Bozeman via Minneapolis, taking about 10 hours in all. Fares start from £620; flexible travel dates will help here.

Scottsdale
Lifestyle epicentre of both Greater Phoenix and southern Arizona, Scottsdale is a city defined by the cultural obsessions of the Sonoran Desert arts and fashion community. Its easy compactness contrasts to the sprawl of Phoenix. The action-jammed radius that begins south at Main Street and extends north beyond Fashion Square contains all you’ll need.

What to see
Taliesen West (12621 Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd, 480 860 2700, www.franklloydwright.org), is the 1930s home-studio of visionary architect Frank Lloyd Wright; vivid tours illustrate his radical beliefs. Don’t miss walking around the Desert Botanical Garden (1201 N Galvin Parkway, 480 941 1225 www.dbg.org). Stunning bungalow-high cacti are among its charms. The Desert Adventure Company (480 816 6465, www.arizonabound.com) can take you by jeep around the desert.

Shopping
In Old Town., at Main Street and Scottsdale Road, you’ll find great western clothes independents, like Porters (3944 N Brown, 408 945 6182). Among the 225 stores of Fashion Square (7014 E Camelback Road, 480 949 0202, www.westcor.com) are many not only unique to Arizona but also to America.

Eating and drinking
The Old Tortilla Factory (6910 E Main, 480 945 4567) is renowned for its cross-genre food. For raucous country music with wry wit, try the Rusty Spur (7245 E Main Street, 480 425 7787) bar. Wayne and Eastwood drank here. Really!

Nightlife and arts
Sharp casual is the code for those who begin their night at the J Bar (James Hotel, see below) or the Kazimierz World Wine Bar (7137 E Stetson Drive, 480 WINE 004, www.kazbar.net). Suede (7333 E Indian Plaza, 480 970 6969, www.suedeaz.com), where good-humoured retro extremes meet sensual jazz, attracts flocks of the 20-30s from all over the city.

Where to stay
Opened in January, the James Hotel (7353 E Indian School Road, 480 308 110, www.jameshotels.com, $95-$285) has that vital fusion of comfort, soft-colours and technology. In north Phoenix, the Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort (7600 N 16th Street, 602 997 7777, www.pointehilton.com, $99-239) is the size of a small village, with ultra-attentive staff, multi-location pools and easy access to Scottsdale yet near-desert seclusion.

Information
Scottsdale Convention and Visitors Bureau, 7343 Scottsdale Mall, Scottsdale, 480 945 8481, www.scottsdalecvb.com). See also: www.experiencescottsdale.com.

Flagstaff and Grand Canyon
Much more than just the gateway to the Grand Canyon, this charismatic, very underrated city is its own attraction. The legendary Route 66 – the Mother Road - twists in and around the bustling Flagstaff downtown, which has frontier history stamped all over it.

What to see
The Museum of Northern Arizona (3101 N Fort Valley Road, 928 774 5213, www.musnaz.org) explains the region’s cultural background; the quiet tree-shaded setting is beautiful. Best known for discovering Pluto, the Lowell Observatory (1400 W Mars Hill Road, 928 774 3358, www.lowell.edu) has among its interests the gigantic Clark Telescope. The night tours are really brilliant, not only for the insights into the Observatory but also for the over-the-city views.

Nightlife and arts
The Museum Club (3404 E Route 66, 928 526 9434, www.museumclub.com) is an authentic 1960s roadhouse, with country-rock links to the music and lifestyle of the whole Route 66 culture. Locals come here to dance, drink and socialise. Downtown’s Orpheum Theatre (15 W Aspen, 928 556 1580, www.orpheumpresents.com) is the kind of classic 1970s-80s American rock venue where you could imagine Talking Heads playing.

Eating and drinking
Beaver Street Brewery (11 S Beaver Street, 928 779 0079) is the quintessential Flagstaff local, with $8-18 food; long happy hours, the fun billiards room and spacious seating makes for a place to kickstart your night out. Opened in April, the Kokopelli Winery Bistro (Heritage Square, 928 226 9463) has new-cuisine lunches in a frontier setting.

Where to stay
Each of the eight rooms at the 410 Bed and Breakfast (410 N Leroux, 928 774 0088, www.inn410.com, $145-205) is tastefully and individually designed. The young, friendly and knowledgeable staff will help you find anything you need around the city. In the city centre, the characterful Weatherford Hotel (23 N Leroux, 928 779 1919, www.weaterfordhotel.com, $65) dates back to the 1950s, has a superb western movie balcony and perhaps the most laid-back bar in town.

Near Flagstaff
Sedona, on the road from Flagstaff to Phoenix has a dreamlike setting of surreal red rocks. The stores are fantastic for souvenirs, like the beautifully designed, wordless local-motifed tee-shirts. Monument Valley Tribal Park (www.navajonationparks.org, 435 727 3353) is a haunting, mystic region used in classic westerns.

The Grand Canyon
You can drive from Flagstaff or leave the car at Williams (30 miles from Flagstaff) and take the two-hour vintage-western train (www.thetrain.com) right into Grand Canyon Village. Round-trip fares start at $58; $99 deals give you an overnight stay. Park admission is $8.
Information

Flagstaff Visitor Center, One East Route 66 (Train Station), 928 774 9541, www.flagstaffarizona.org.

Tucson
Arizona’s second city has an almost lazy American-Mexican feel (it’s 60 miles from the border) that is emphasised by its unnerving closeness to the desert and the high mix of ethnic cultures. The Spanish El Presidio district downtown is a good focus of orientation; the adjoining city centre area is pedestrian-free and pleasant to explore.

What to see
Tucson Museum of Art and Historic Block (140 N Main Avenue, 520 624 2333, www.tucsonarts.com) will give you an instant insight into the city’s cultural span. Next door, Old Town Artisans is a little maze of wonderful shops selling crafts and gifts; the complex includes La Cocina Restaurant and Cantina, a lovely courtyard lunch venue. In north Tucson, the mesmerising Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum (2021 N Kinney Road, 520 883 2702, www.desertmuseum.org,) houses indigenous animals and plants.

Nightlife and arts
To see American acts not usually in the UK and mix with rock aficionados, go to City Limits (6350 E Tanque Verde, 520 733 6262, www.ctlimits.com). If you want to dance, drink beer and meet the locals, the DJ/Dance venue Cactus Moon is your spot, at 5470 E Broadway Boulevarde, 520 748 0049. To coast around, you could do no better than the East Congress Street area: at least four live music clubs are close to each other here.

Eating and drinking
Try Café Poca Cosa (88 E Broadway Blvd, Clarion Hotel, 520 622 6400) – devotees of the café’s Mexican-American dishes travel from afar to eat here. The Blue Willow (2616 N Campbell 520 327 7577) dates back to the 1970s, yet its wholesome food is 2004-modern. Gentle Ben’s Brewing Company (865 E University, www.gentlebens.com) is near the University of Arizona.

Where to stay
Understated elegance is the signature of the Arizona Inn (2200 E Elm Street, 520 325 1541, www.arizonainn.com, $129-349). Fascinatingly, major movie stars stayed here in the 1930s. Everything from the rooms to the lawns are immaculate. In the same quiet neighborhood, the Adobe Rose Inn (940 N Olsen Avenue, 520 318 4644, www.aroseinn.com, $65-165) has a lovely southwestern design theme throughout; it’s close to the city center and freeways.

Information
Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau, 100 South Church Street, 520 770 2142, www.visitTucson.org.

Arizona Statewide
The average temperature now is 90F; 100F+ can be the norm. On the interstates, between cities, 75 mph is the limit. City freeways are 65 mph. Scottsdale to Flagstaff is 150 miles; Phoenix to Tucson is 120 miles. Buy a car cooler; carry water always.
To request a brochure in the UK, call 0906 577 0031. The USA website is www.arizonaguide.com.

St Louis
The city’s attractions are augmented this year by several major anniversary celebrations, the most prominent being the 1904 World’s Fair. Begin downtown. By taking the thrill-ride tram up the famous 630-feet-high Gateway Arch you can see how St Louis fits into the plains all around. Regular riverboat cruises depart from beside the arch.

City transport
The Metrolink light rail system will get you around the attractions efficiently; day passes are $4. A car is essential for out-of-town touring and to offset taxi fares.

What to see
The best way to appreciate at a glance the sports culture of the city is to visit the St Louis Cardinals Hall of Fame, housed at the International Bowling Museum (111 Stadium Plaza, 314 231 6340, www.bowlingmuseum.com). Chuck Berry’s Gibson ES-350T can be seen at Blueberry Hill (6504 Delmar Blvd, 314 727 0880, www.blueberryhill.com), a 1950s shrine to that era’s revolutionary music.

Entertainment, bars and food
Laclede’s Landing (the most central area) has bars and clubs; but it’s worth checking too the Soulard District. The Pageant Concert Nightclub (6161 Delmar Street, Skiner Blvd, www.thepageant.com) has superb touring acts, like Lucinda Williams on 20th August. Patty Long’s 9th Street Abbey (1808 S Ninth, 314 231 9598) serves midwest food at its zingiest.

Where to stay
Midtown chain choices are wisest for location as well as economy. Best Western Inn at the Park (4630 Lindell Blvd, 314 367 7500, www.bestwestern.com, $70-110,) places you next door to Forest Park, bigger than NYC’s Central Park and where the 1904 World’s Fair was held. Another option is the Holiday Inn Forest Park (5915 Wilson Avenue, 314 645 0700, www.holidayinnforestpark.com, $76-120).

In the area
Hannibal, where Samuel L Clemens (aka Mark Twain) created his boy adventurers, is an extended dedication to his memory. At the Twain Museum you can see ordinary realities, like letters and first editions. The riverboat called after him proceeds slowly enough to let you imagine the old days around Hannibal; while the drive down Highway 79 to St Louis is one of the most scenic in the state.

Information
Visitor Center, St Louis: 308 Washington Avenue, 314 241 1764. Tourism information: www.explorestlouis.com.

Bozeman
An All-American town in the southwest wilds of Montana, Bozeman has a real Main Street with stores on it, super art galleries as well as colourful bars and restaurants that you don’t have to drive to. The many outdoors wonders include the world’s first national park. But the entire Gallatin area around Bozeman exudes that big-sky expansiveness.

What to see
Though technology is not something you’d associate with Montana, the American Computer Museum (234 E Babcock Street, 406 582 1288 www.compustory.com) traces the lineage of modern pcs; outstandingly well conceptualised with absorbing exhibits. For vintage photographs and local items, it’s worth visiting the Gallatin Pioneer Museum (317 W Main Street, 406 522 8122,www.pioneermuseum.org).

Eating and drinking
The gregarious Spanish Peak Brewery (Church and Main, 406 585 2296) serves calzones, catfish and many appetisers, with Bozeman-brewed beer among the drinks. The atmosphere is easygoing and informal. You can’t stay in Bozeman without drinking at the Rockin’ R (211 E Main, 406 587 9355), the most popular bar in town -- the one that best illustrates the wry humour of the often sardonic locals.

Nightlife and arts
The Brick Breeden Fieldhouse at Montana State University (406 994 7117, www.ticketswest.com) features high-profile acts; it’s rightly considered to be one of the most exciting big college venues in America. On West Main, the Ellen Theater is a 1919 cinema that shows regular contemporary movies – not your average cineplex and locals love it.

Where to stay
An independent hotel with character is the Downtown Imperial Inn (122 W Main, 406 586 3354, www.innbozeman.com, $49-120), which also has the advantage of being surrounded by restaurants, bars and entertainments. Only three blocks from downtown, the engaging Voss Inn (319 S Wilson Avenue, 406 587 0982, www.bozeman-vossinn.com, $90-100) has a very western period feel.

In the region
The mighty Yellowstone Park (307 344 7381, www.nps.gov/yell ) is 90 miles south. The drive down to the Montana entrance is in itself a dramatic experience, the road wrapping around the Gallatin National Forest and past the Big Sky Resort. Twenty-two miles east of Bozeman is Livingston, the town where A River Runs Through It was shot. People who live there are happy to tell you about the background to the movie’s making; the guides at www.montanafishingco.com know where to catch those trout.

Information
Visitor Center, 224 East Main Street, 406 586 4008; www.historicbozeman.com. See also: www.bozeman.net and www.bozemancvb.visitmt.com.